دانلود کتاب The Birth of Cool: Style Narratives of the African Diaspora

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Cover page\nHalftitle page\nTitle page\nCopyright page\nDedication\nCONTENTS\nLIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS\nLIST OF PLATES\nACKNOWLEDGMENTS\nPREFACE\nINTRODUCTION\n This time it’s personal\n Cool: an aesthetic of presence across the African diaspora\n The mechanics of style narratives and the African diaspora: a methodology\n Style narratives and auto/biography\n1 ANGEL IN THE MARKET PLACE: THE AFRICAN-JAMAICAN HIGGLER 1880–1907\n The critical draw of the postcard “A Jamaica Lady”\n The critical possibilities of the postcard “A Jamaica Lady”\n “A Jamaica Lady”: portraiture, captions and “the intellectual space” of a postcard\n The emergence of the higgler\n African-Jamaican higgler style: a study through images\n Head-portage\n Headwear\n Garments\n Jewellery\n Furbelow\n Feet\n The apron of the African-Jamaican higgler: an accessory to freedom\n Aston W. Gardner\n Beasts of burden\n The styled African-Jamaican higgler: a graphic symbol of colonial discourse\n2 “WE ALSO SHOULD WALK IN THE NEWNESS OF LIFE”:1 INDIVIDUALIZED HARLEM STYLE OF THE 1930s\n The Harlem Renaissance: a retelling of newness\n Couple in Raccoon Coats, with a Cadillac, Taken on West 127th Street, Harlem, New York, 1932\n Malvin Gray Johnson\n An alternative reading of Self-portrait: Myself at Work\n That sweater\n Stripes: a trope of meaning\n Malvin Gray Johnson: an underlined presence\n Malvin Gray Johnson: sincerely himself\n Summary: take two portraits about Harlem\n3 “ALL OF ME”: BILLIE HOLIDAY\n Lady Sings the Blues: a sincere self\n Billie Holiday: a female dandy\n Billie Holiday: a collage in the making\n From Eleanora Harris to Billie Holiday: re-naming and self-creation\n Strange Fruit: a song, a corsage, an awakening\n Four colors white\n “Heroin Chic”(k)\n Beauty nonetheless\n Billie Holiday: night and day\n “It’s my hair; I paid for it”\n Billie Holiday: the classic\n Summary: existential resonance\n4 “MY MAN, LET ME PULL YOUR COAT TO SOMETHING”1: MALCOLM X\n Epiphany\n Reading between the lines\n Talking pictures\n Dead man walking\n Summary: Malcolm X, graphically speaking\n5 YOU SHOULD UNDERSTAND, IT’S A FREEDOM THING: THE STONED CHERRIE–STEVEBIKO T-SHIRT\n The contributory components of the Stoned-Cherrie–Steve Biko T-shirt\n It’s a mystery: the fashioned T-shirt\n Multiple readings of the Stoned Cherrie–Steve Biko T-shirt\n An alternative reading: the Stoned Cherrie–Steve Biko T-shirt, the centered breath of freedom\n “Freedom is a road seldom travelled by the multitude”\n The style narrative of Steve Biko’s face on a T-shirt\n6 HERE: THE HAUNTING JOY OF BEING IN ENGLAND\n Haunting perspectives\n Joy\n The archival fragment: a vein of history\n The academic value of Dr Beryl Gilroy’s letter\n The gift of a letter\n “I was ‘bookish,’ but still a heavy dresser”: the letter unpacked\n “Leaves in the Wind”\n Style as levitation\n Mrs Gloria Bennett\n Style-fashion-dress as “duppy conqueror”\nCODA\nNOTES\nBIBLIOGRAPHY\nINDEX\nPlates