دانلود کتاب Japanese Fashion Cultures: Dress and gender in contemporary Japan

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Cover page\nHalftitle page\nSeries page\nTitle page\nCopyright page\nCONTENTS\nILLUSTRATIONS\nACKNOWLEDGEMENTS\n1 INTRODUCING JAPANESE FASHION, PAST AND PRESENT\n Layers of Japanese aesthetic history\n Dress and gender\n Wearing gender in Japan\n Interlaced flows of culture: seeing Japanese fashion globally\n Reflections and distortions: representations as a source for study\n Tracing chapters\n2 LOST IN A GAZE: YOUNG MEN AND FASHION IN CONTEMPORARY JAPAN\n Reading men’s fashion: a brief history of Japanese men’s fashion magazines\n Japanese men’s fashion periodicals: past and present\n Neat, fresh and smart: Popeye , Men’s non-no and Fineboys\n The age of sensibility: men’s fashion magazines and defined age demographics\n A boy’s life\n The face of the magazines: first impressions of the encounter\n The pleasurable gaze: looking and being looked at\n Through the magic looking-glass: men and vanity\n Science versus the art of taking care of appearance\n Conclusion\n3 BOY’S ELEGANCE: ALIMINALITY OF BOYISH CHARM AND OLD-WORLD SUAVITY\n Fusion of European and Japanese aesthetic senses\n The nationality of fashionable men\n In praise of youthful slenderness: preferred modes of male aesthetics in Japan\n With a 26-inch waist: slenderness as the flower of Japanese male beauty\n Elegant cowboys: D&G garments and stylistic transformations\n Boyish reinvention of the ‘Neo-Edwardian’ dandy style\n A marriage of the casual and elegant: popularization of elegance in contemporary Japanese men’s styles\n Boyish playfulness and old-world elegance: an aesthetic continuity and transformation of Milkboy\n Edgy, cute and suave: Milkboy as a candy-box of boys’ fashion aesthetics\n Dressing for time and occasion: negotiating romantic desires and narcissistic impulses\n Conclusion\n4 GLACÉ WONDERLAND: CUTENESS, SEXUALITY AND YOUNG WOMEN *\n In the name of kawaii\n A liminal space of dreaming: Japanese concept of shoj o\n Alice’s voyage to the empire of the sun\n A Victorian girl with independence: Alice and a sense of autonomy\n Being Alice in Japan: music videos of Alisa Mizuki, Tomoko Kawase and Kaela Kimura\n A fairy tale without a prince: Japanese music videos and narrative themes\n Alice vs Barbie: sexualization of femininity in American music videos\n Too cute to be good: some criticism of kawaii\n Gloomy wonderland: darker sides of the Victorian girl\n A delicate kind of revolt\n Three stages of subtle revolutions\n The equilibrium of pastel and dark shades\n Conclusion\n5 RIBBONS AND LACE: GIRLS, DECORATIVE FEMININITY AND ANDROGYNY\n The dress of a bisque doll princess: aspects of Lolita fashion\n Embroidering the romantic past: European dress aesthetics and Japanese appropriations\n Decorative femininity: praises and criticism\n A Lolita girl in the countryside: dress and Shimotsuma Monogatari\n Appearance says everything: dress and identity in Shimotsuma Monogatari\n Sweet reveries of the rococo: the rococo dreams of Momoko\n Frills for independence\n Valiant be the sweet maidens: girls propelling the narrative\n A romantic camaraderie of girls\n Performing masculin féminin\n Refashioning the ‘androgynous’ look\n Conclusion\n6 AN IVY BOY AND A PREPPY GIRL: STYLE IMPORT-EXPORT*\n Through a Japanese lens\n Ivy goes to Japan\n Dressing up for school: variations of the school style\n Rugged suavity: Take Ivy and IVY Illustrated\n Preppy girls\n Conclusion\n7 CONCLUDING JAPANESE FASHION CULTURES, CHANGE AND CONTINUITY\nNOTES\nREFERENCES\nINDEX