دانلود کتاب Staging Fashion: The Fashion Show and Its Spaces

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Copyright Page\nTitle Page\nContents\nFigures\nAbbrevations\nContributors\nPreface\nAcknowledgements\nStaging the fashion show and its spaces\n Structure of the Book\n References\nPart 1: Body and space\n Chapter 1: The discursive space of the fashion show\n Modern spaces\n Shifting the fashion show\n Conclusion\n References\n Chapter 2: ‘Through the looking glass’: Thom Browne and the tailoring of a queer design\n Tailoring the rituals of fashion’s homosocial performance\n Fall 2016: When Dorian Gray met Adolf Loos\n Spring 2018: Secular reliquary of gender\n Spring 2019: Camp and the garden of silly delights\n Conclusion\n Notes\n References\n Chapter 3: In his own words: Chalayan speaks\n Rise to fame\n An architect of ideas\n Remote control couture\n Material maestro and technological innovation\n References\n Chapter 4: The fashion chamber and the posthuman dissolution of gender\n Introduction\n Fashion installation: Open and closed\n The fashion chamber of horrors\n The dissolution of gender, posthumanism and the end of ‘Man’\n Conclusion\n References\n Chapter 5: ‘Savage Beauties’: Alexander McQueen’s performance of posthuman bodies\n Introduction\n Alexander McQueen’s posthuman bodies\n Matter, the body and fashion\n McQueen’s posthuman fashion and metamorphosis in Voss\n (Un)folding posthuman bodies in Voss\n Becoming an underwater assemblage\n Conclusion\n References\n 6: Under the skin: Designing immersive experiences in fashion display\n Introduction\n The Stitchery Collective’s creative practice\n Fashion spaces\n Experiencing bodiless clothes\n Participation in design and fashion\n Conclusion\n References\nPart 2: Architecture and city\n Chapter 7: ‘It’s a sensation’: Space and affect within the fashion show\n Introduction\n Atmosphere\n Primary Structures\n Fashion, performance, luminance\n The contemporary fashion show\n Movement, sand, light\n Conclusion\n References\n Chapter 8: Industrial chic: Fashion shows in ready-made spaces\n Introduction\n Studying the runway show as a cultural-economic, media-related and socio-spatial phenomenon\n The changing concept of runway shows\n The invention of unusual show locations in a contemporary setting\n A typology of unusual show locations based on adaptive reuse\n Aesthetic reuse value and the cultural alchemy of appropriation\n Ideological reuse values: Brand-squatting and guerrilla fashion shows\n A marketplace of impression-making\n The aesthetic market and the real estate market\n Conclusion\n References\n Chapter 9: Staging fashion in Hong Kong’s alternative neighbourhood places and spaces\n Introduction\n The fashioned urban space: Fashion and/in the city\n Fashion show origins\n The social milieu of fashion weeks and fashion shows\n Fashioning urban Hong Kong\n PMQ site of the fashion show: A case study\n Identification and orientation function\n Persuasive function\n Aesthetic function\n Regulatory function\n Conclusion\n References\n Chapter 10: ‘Too difficult’: Koolhaas, OMA and Prada at the boundary of fashion\n Introduction\n The art of Prada\n Constancy and change\n A radical space: From Epicenter to fashion show\n Too difficult\n Where one ends and the other begins\n Conclusion\n References\n Chapter 11: Creativity, corporeality and collaboration: Staging fashion with Giorgio Armani and Robert Wilson\n Introduction\n G.A. Story: Creativity and commerce\n The lady from the sea: Independent femininity\n The Guggenheim exhibition: Reinventing the white cube\n The art of collaboration\n Notes\n References\nPart 3: Spectacle, media and space\n Chapter 12: The construction of social relations in Chanel’s spectacular shows\n Introduction\n The shows\n Spectacle\n Commodity\n Conclusion\n Notes\n References\n Chapter 13: New York Fashion Week as mediatized environment\n Introduction\n The mediatized fashion show\n New York Fashion Week as a live and mediatized event\n The studio spaces of the fashion show\n Conclusion\n Notes\n References\n Chapter 14: Specularization of fashion: Desperate Housewives and the fashion show runway\n Introduction\n Pilot\n Gabrielle’s fashion show\n Twinned origins, film and fashion shows as popular sensations\n Conclusion\n References\n Chapter 15: Fashion on parade: Designing glamour and ordinariness at the British beauty contest\n Introduction\n ‘Beauty surrounds, health abounds’: Miss Great Britain at the Super Swimming Stadium\n Dressing the stage: Miss She and Glamorous Grandmother at Butlin’s Holiday Camp\n Making a spectacle: Miss World at the Royal Albert Hall\n Conclusion\n Acknowledgements\n References\nIndex